Tempering is a uniquely Indian cooking technique. I wanted to create jewellery based on the magical act of pouring hot spiced oil into cooked food.-Baanley collection
Had stumbled upon Dvibhumi‘s instagram account a while ago, but one fine day I read on it a cryptic message ‘Utensils of early Indian settlers in Singapore-Ruchi launches this month’ which piqued my interest. To quench my curiosity I wrote and requested Vyshnavi N Doss, its founder and designer, for an e-catalog of her latest creations. The revert read “I design in Singapore and work with craftsmen in India and Indonesia to create modern jewellery with a strong Asian narrative. My signature aesthetic is clean lines and surfaces in combination with textures and motifs. You will notice how the designs go beyond statements and can easily spark a conversation. One should expect more matte finishes and monochrome than bling on geometrical forms with the spotlight on detail.”
Leaving me thirsty for more I asked her few pertinent questions.
MGD: What were your reasons to design jewellery?
VND: I have a huge need for complete creative ownership and autonomy, which only an independent label can provide. Strangely, I wasn’t really into dressing up or accessories in the first place! It was only when I moved from India to Singapore that jewellery found its way into my wardrobe. Perhaps it was an expression of my individuality and roots, in a new country. Gradually, my interest in it grew into something more serious. I found that designing gave me my space to be a creator and a way to appreciate the world I live in; in essence, it gave me a way of life.
MGD: What have been your inspirations in this journey?
VND: My work is often based on childhood experiences around music, cooking etc. What I learned about audiences and the creative process during my years in advertising informs my thinking and values even today. Originality is very close to my heart. I spend a lot of time on idea development. I am also very inspired by the discourse around modern Indian design. Right now it may be at a very nascent stage, but it is surely happening. This is an interesting time to be a designer with Indian roots.
MGD: Since the thread of your latest collection is a South Indian kitchen tell us a bit about your memorable times spent there.
VND: ‘Ruchi’ is about the return to innocence. In a way it is my reaction to the crazy times we live in. The kitchen was a big part of my growing up years. I enjoyed helping my grandmother make rotis and gulab jamun. Washing utensils and making dosa batter on the grinding stone was meditative. For me, the kitchen is a sanctuary of beautiful objects, textures, magical rituals and the joy of simple pleasures. And that is why I made a collection around it.
When worn, ‘Belan’ has a wonderfully smooth and reflective surface with handsome grooves and a gratifying weightiness. Even as it explores the beauty of quotidian objects
and rituals, it is versatile.
The label’s name is adapted from Sanskrit words “dvi” (means “two”) and “bhumi” (means “earth”) representing a stream of ideas flowing from two worlds. India is where she grew up, and South East Asia is where she resides now.
Her expressive rings, cuffs, necklaces, cufflinks and earrings are for both men and women, with some being unisex also. Their graphics, motifs, sculpture, curves, subtle textures and handsome industrial detailing, resonate with my sensibilities, as nothing is ordinary!