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Resplendent Benarasi weaves from history and beyond

Jhini jhini bini chadariya.

kah ke tana, kah ke bharni, kaun taar se bini chadariya

ingla pingla taana bharni, sushumna tar se bini chadariya.

ashta kamal dal charkha doley, panch tatva, gun tini chadariya

saiin ko siyat mas dus lagey, thonk-thonk ke bini chadariya.

so chaadar sur nar muni odhi, odhi ke maili kini chadariya

das Kabir jatan kari odhi, jyon ki tyon dhar deeni chadariya.

The Lord Supreme has woven a very fine and delicate tapestry, free of impurities of any kind!

What refined and subtle yarn, what complex interlacing,

He has used to weave it!

Using veins and breath he threads twenty four hours on end,

His spinning wheel turns,

Weaving the tapestry from all five essential elements.

Ten months it takes the Lord to weave his tapestry,

Using the greatest of craftsmanship, care and skill.

That exquisite tapestry is worn by the celestials, by Saints, and by human beings alike.

But they all invariably have defiled it !

Your humble devotee Kabir has worn it scrupulously and meticulously,

And is returning it to you, O’Lord, unblemished and pure !

(cited Blind to Bounds)

Kaaynat - Gold the art of Zari by Swati and Sunaina

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Not just for women

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Tempering is a uniquely Indian cooking technique. I wanted to create jewellery based on the magical act of pouring hot spiced oil into cooked food.-Baanley collection

Had stumbled upon Dvibhumi‘s instagram account a while ago, but one fine day I read on it a cryptic message ‘Utensils of early Indian settlers in Singapore-Ruchi launches this month’ which piqued my interest. To quench my curiosity I wrote and requested Vyshnavi N Doss, its founder and designer, for an e-catalog of her latest creations. The revert read “I design in Singapore and work with craftsmen in India and Indonesia to create modern jewellery with a strong Asian narrative. My signature aesthetic is clean lines and surfaces in combination with textures and motifs. You will notice how the designs go beyond statements and can easily spark a conversation. One should expect more matte finishes and monochrome than bling on geometrical forms with the spotlight on detail.”

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Kabir inspires contemporary fashion

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Contemporary apparel is known to be accessible in price and relevant to present day fashion. It is modern compared to the higher end luxury market and a tad younger, more often than not.

For a fashion student contemporary begins from the loom which makes a more powerful statement than the machine, when woven with hand. Designer Padmaja Krishnan like Kabir, equates it to meditation; which as per the weaver’s poetry is known to be an expression of an ingenious human mind. Being a slow fashion addict, her eponymous label too hopes to restore the magic in handloom, through ‘The Loom Mind’ collection, this year.

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Bohemian Christmas

Tucked away in the bylane of Shahpur Jat, New Delhi, is a quaint store on the first floor, Olivia Dar. An eponymous contemporary bohemian luxury label was born in 2011. This labour of love originated from the lady’s travels and her desire to share the traditional artisanal crafts of India and Central Asia. Earlier one knew of her women’s accessories but today its her chic bomber jackets and upcycled gypsy vintage dresses which are creating ripples in the West.

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Old becomes In, with jewellery

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Steampunk is a sub-genre of science fiction or fantasy wherein technology and aesthetics are inspired by 19th-century – industrial steam-powered machinery; as those were the romantic times when art and craft movement, discoveries and new technology, were all vying for attention at the same time, in Europe. And so in the mid-20th century, the Steampunk movement  began modding the two through a wide variety of artistic styles.

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Adornment, what a science!

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Phew!!! It sure does take a lot of perseverance to tap the right labels for the blog…anyways cutting a long  story short, last fortnight I managed to meet the young Tuhina Goyal of HOUSE OF TUHINA fame, at her neat and chic manufacturing unit in Noida, Uttar Pradesh.

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Mastering local weaves and styles

For Chinar Farooqui – a textile and clothing designer working from her studio in Jaipur, Rajasthan – India, style is primarily a matter of instinct. Hearing that statement I quickly reflected on my wardrobe, and realized how comfortable I was getting in my skin, with time!

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Swati Kalsi’s avant-garde Sujani

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Had met Swati Kalsi, an immensely talented fashion and textile designer at the Nayaab exhibition late last year. And my first question to her was…. what’s the difference between Sujani and Kantha? Sujani, she explained is a mix of running, chain and filler or Bharua stitches while Kantha is predominantly running. Common to both Bihar and Bengal (neighbouring states of india), these traditional crafts are aesthetically layered and sewn together out of old, worn pieces of cloth.

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Death by shoes

For anyone with a shoe fetish Amorio should be your must-buy brand, in Jaipur. Do not miss it for anything in the world specially if you are looking to own a second skin!!

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